Casco Viejo is by far my favorite place in Panama City. Its old world charm draws a mixture of classes and cultures to its open plazas and winding streets. It is easy to lose yourself in the wonder of it all, and imagine yourself to be in the French Quarter of New Orleans, or some side street of Havana. Once you are drawn into the magic of it all, it is really hard to leave. Literally…

There is only one street that serves as an exit from Casco Viejo to the rest of the city of Panama. On my last visit, which happened to be Good Friday of Easter week, a friend and I tried to leave around 6pm, only to find that this one route was at a standstill because of a religious procession up ahead.

To begin, the taxis in Panama are a breed all their own. They want your business, but only when convenient for them. I have been in many situations where a taxi driver will pull up, ask where I’m headed, and immediately drive away. Not wanting to cede from that trend, three different taxi drivers rejected my pleas to take me away from Casco Viejo to El Cangrejo.

Finally, as I trudged on at a rate ironically faster than traffic, I came upon an unoccupied taxi that welcomed my business. I got in the non air-conditioned vehicle to wait out the religious parade with my new friend. As I watched old men hobble by with their canes, and small children aging into their teens, I grew fearful that I would never get out of there. The narrow street was framed on both sides by several story high buildings, and I could feel the exhaust from the panting red devils (the name given to the city buses) entering my lungs and pores.

We passed by a side street at a rate of one kilometer per hour which allowed me to see the taunting street name “Salsipuedes” – “get out if you can.” My fear turned to terror just as we reached the turn-off that led us away from the procession and the quicksand of a corner of Panama. A sigh of relief escaped from my lips as the ocean air filled the car expelling the fumes that had surrounded me.

When we got to my apartment, 25 minutes after the start of the entire episode, I was charge the typical $1.50 for my trip. With a renewed love for the city, I went to post my pictures of Casco Viejo online and to reaffirm to the world that life here is good.

Claire Saylor
http://www.panamatravels.com/