I love Cusco, Peru. It's a great, safe, walking, tourist city. They cater to foreigners. Cusco lives and dies by tourism. When you come to Cusco (and you will come one day to see Machupicchu) make sure you experience as much away from your tour group as possible. All we have is memories once the moment passes so I try to create as many as possible for myself.

Ride one of Cusco's many buses. Get in the most sardine can jammed packed one you can find and enjoy humanity. If you're any distance away from the Plaza de Armas and want to get back jump heading in its direction and you will wind up back on Almagro. Most buses are just large vans with seats that cram in over 20 people. Yell "baja" when you've had enough and they'll let you off. Don't pay until they ask for "pasajes" to insure they won't forget you paid.

Taxis in Cusco are never more than 1 dollar US to go anyplace and since 7 out of every 10 vehicles on the road is a taxi you can get one anyplace. Don't tip unless the driver is super friendly and you're feeling generous. Take one to the Baratilla street market on Saturday morning but don't bring anything of value since pickpockets are everyplace. Its safe enough and there are streets and streets of truck transmissions, car parts, produce, tools, clothes and everything new and used in between. Cusco also has a nice black market open everyday, Molino. Take the 'Liebre' (rabbit) bus there and back. It's like a flea market. You can buy cameras, DVD players, iPods baby strollers, backpacks, clothes, shoes and food for cheap. I'll buy my next camera there. You can walk to the more tourist friendly San Pedro Mercado from the Plaza de Armas for coffee, cocoa, pan trigo. Try one of the juice bars for some fresh squeezed carrot or papaya juice. You won't get sick. All these places are simple to find by asking anybody. Guys, don't get a haircut before you come to Cusco. For under 2 dollars (5 soles) you can get a haircut that is as good as any $100 haircut in the US. They take 30 to 45 minutes and do a great job. Go to Almagro off Avenida del Sol and there are 2 great barbershops with about 8 people cutting hair all day everyday. You won't have to take your scissors later and get the parts they missed like you do in the USA where they charge 10 times more and rush you out after 10 minutes. Tip a few soles.

Walk Cusco's side streets to shop. Leave the Plaza de Armas and walk down Ave el Sol for 2 blocks and take a right down Ayacucho and just keep walking and it will turn into Calle Nuevo. Wander the side streets and just get lost. You'll see other tourists don't worry. There are 100's of small shops that sell clothes, shoes, electronics, food, juice stands and more. Don't shop near the Plaza de Armas, you will find better deals here and its not souvenir stuff. The store owners are friendly and you can practice your Spanish. North and west of the Plaza de Armas is all touristy - south and west is the direction Cusco sprawls. Give the beggars coins or any food and smile at them like they're human beings.

When you're ready to see Cusco don't cheap out. I met some students who didn't want to pay for the "Sacred Valley Tour". The tour price includes the bus, guide and tourist ticket for admission to 17 different sites. They just wanted to go to one place on the tourist ticket so they bought it and got a taxi to the site. For a few dollars more they could have had a great guided tour of many more sites with a group and met some people. You can't obviously see 17 sites in one day so the tourist ticket is also used for Cusco "City Tour". So when you come to Cusco take the 3 essential tours: Cusco City Tour, Sacred Valley Tour and of course Machupicchu. They're all one-day tours but if you want to splurge you can stay over night at Aguas Caliente, the town at the base of Machupicchu. That's where the train station is. All of the big hotels in Aguas Caliente are really nice and from US$110-150 per night. Another traveler I met was very proud to tell me she arranged all her family's tickets herself and didn't use a travel agent. Whatever. She saved minimal money and had no local contact for support and help if required. I would recommend using a local travel agent so you get a decent, experienced, reputable English speaking guided tour, airport and train station rides and a nice hotel. See Cusco for a once in a lifetime experience.

Christian Marks is a South American explorer who writes for the clueless traveler. He can be seen making a fool out of himself trying to speak Spanish in Cusco, Peru daily. Check out more ramblings in English at http://seecusco.blogspot.com