Valencia in the middle of March every year sees the spectacle of Las Fallas.

Historically during the mid 18th century, the Fallas was just one part of the festival commemorating Saint Joseph’s Day (19 March). The morning of the18th March saw Peleles (rag dolls) entwined across streets from window to window, or small platforms would be set up against walls displaying Ninots (one or two figures). These being a likeness of people of the time. During the day, youngsters would collect objects to be burnt on bonfires (called Fallas). They would then all be burnt in the evening’s celebration before St. Joseph's Day.

The modern day Fallas celebration sees huge papier-mache effigies reaching skywards, towering in height. The brightly coloured figurines being as diverse as King Kong, the Rolling Stones, political figures, film stars - international status does not make you exempt from being caricatured!

The celebrations in the city of Valencia attract almost 2 million visitors and are not for the faint hearted, with firework displays of such cacophony that pregnant women are forbidden to attend the Mascleta, held daily at the Plaza Ayuntamiento. Different neighbouring districts compete at the Mascleta for the most impressive display, with the prize going to the thunderously ear piercing loudest.

Of course you don’t have to go to the city of Valencia, as the Fallas are held in many towns in the surrounding areas. I was fortunate this year to witness the Fallas held in the medieval town of Xativa, the Ninots being a wonderment of size, colour and artistry, with photo opportunities around every corner.

In the early evening of the 18th, rallying calls from firework displays could be heard echoing throughout the narrow streets, as some of the smaller Ninots from the children’s section were set alight. Whilst walking the streets with family and friends I was appreciative of being part of this spectacular festival, with our every word being punctuated by firecrackers thrown by small children.

As the evening gave way to night we followed our planned route, weaving along the ancient narrow streets that open into vast squares. We witnessed many of the exquisite gargantuan figures come alive with the noise from fireworks so loud and powerful they could be felt pounding in ones chest. The smell of smoke gave way to the sight of small flames emitting from the base of the Ninots. These flames grew ever higher, transforming the brightly coloured caricatures’ features with a covering of soot, thus securing their dignity as if to shield them from their impending plight. Flames danced an inseparable tango with the Ninots, casting shadows on the ancient walls, once again bearing witness to this spectacular event.

The whole experience was of such magnitude, my teenage son (who has grown up in the virtual reality electronics age, where with special effects anything and everything is possible), commented that: “Everyone should experience the Fallas at least once in their life”.

James O’Grady
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